I was planning to meet my sister in Madrid, and then go to Lisbon, Seville and end up in Valencia so I could meet my husband's ship there. However, we apparently couldn't get a train ticket from Lisbon or Madrid to Seville, and we also couldn't get anything to Valencia.
So this narrative talks about our passing through Madrid for the second time.
Taxi to the Valencia station, checked our bags, tried to get WL to Valencia. The only place left was for officials and we'd have to come back in a hour to see about it. With foreboding, we finally caught taxi to AmExp (Taxis are cheap). They had nothing at all for Valencia, but my sister could have a flight to Nuremberg. So at 10:35 we decided she should take the 1:15 plane. No time to take the airport bus -- taxi back to the station.
I disappeared into the depths to get the bags. My sister had the baby in the stroller, diaper bag, food bag and garment bag and I carried our two suitcases.
Taxi about $1.75 to the airport -- like going from downtown to Friendship (now BWI). Weighed in at 10 lbs heavy (She had been, supposedly 18 lb overweight on the trip down with all the diapers and baby food).
After repacking, throwing out, and giving away (powdered milk donated to stewardesses nino cousin) they accepted the bags -- weren't so picayune as the Germans were).
Everyone into the ladies room where we convulsed the attendants by my sister giving the baby and herself a sponge bath while I performed the magic act , standard form (consisting of washing bottles and making powdered milk and orange juice from a concentrate. This never failed to astound the Spanish). My sister changed clothes, gave me back my dress, combed her hair, took her leave from TA, exited through passport control. She said that in Spain, the Stewardess takes the baby from the mother. In Germany, the stewardess offers to carry the diaper bag.
My sister and niece exiting through passport control
Postcard from 1964
Dear D (postcard from Madrid)
Tell G'mummy that auntie B and cousin D. got on the plane this morning to go home. We couldn't get space to Valencia because there is a festival there, but they are well and healthy. She insists that if I write her, she will forward the letters right on to you. I still don't know a hotel for Valencia or indeed anywhere until Nuremberg.
Love, Mummy
-----------------------
This has been a most frustrating day. It need not have been if anyone knew anything and communications were better. After I left my sister at the airport, I went to the information bureau and they said Certainly I ought to be able to get a train space and a hotel booked. They gave me the name of a travel agency, but it wouldn't be open until 4.30. And there was an Express at 7 that got in at 10 (Madrid to Valencia). So I went down to get the airline bus -- they don't leave anymore until 2:30 (it was then 1.30). Well I waited anyway and in about a 1/2 hr. one pulled up and so I got in. Then we got to the Palace Hotel and they almost wouldn't let me have my bag because I had no airline claim check -- after all, what was I doing on the bus if not coming from an airplane?
Got a taxi to the station (RR) and again checked my bag. The station was packed.
What I should have done was stand in line and get a reservation, but I felt that would be ungrateful to the travel agency. So I got lunch and finished my postcards and mailed them, and took a taxi out to the travel agency. I was still 1/2 hr. early so had to wait
La Lectura (The reading) - 766 by Goya 1766-1828
I sent this card to my dad's office workers
This picture from the Prado Museum is supposed to be a cartoon & is from Goya's "black period". I have just put my sister on the plane for Nurnberg after she spent a week here in Spain and Portugal with me. We took the baby to museums, a bullfight and castles. She was much admired.
RosalieAnn
-----------------------------------------------
At the travel agency, they said that with a Eurail pass I'd have to go to the station to get a seat and they wouldn't book me a hotel, but Valencia was a big city and no one stayed there for a holiday because the beaches weren't near. So I should have no trouble. And they gave me some addresses and indicated which were big hotels.
So I took the Metro (1.5 pesetas against 25 pesetas ) back to the station, which was a madhouse. I stood in line 3 SOLID HOURS only to discover that I couldn't get a seat reservation except on the train.
I met some of Spain's youth, who were very nice, although there was a communications barrier and I read "The Little King" comic over another man's shoulder. There were families with every size child, luggage of every miscellaneous sort. All are going to the beach for a holiday.
I was very tired, so I got my bag out of hock (did I say that it was the baggage man who set me straight about what time the train really left? He seemed most anxious that I understand) and went to the Wagon-Lits office on the off-chance that there might be one, and there was!! Maybe having to produce 2 together made it difficult. Or maybe the other man wanted his palm crossed with silver, but this time it was zip-zip and there I was 318 pesetas please, which is between 5 and 6 dollars. So here I am in luxury accommodations again
Of course I still had to walk around and find the right train. It was early enough that the train was not marked. My bag gets heavier and heavier. I'm going to have to give some of my travel literature to Bob.
Anyway, I didn't get any shopping done so I'll have to see about a way to get back to Toulon when I get to Valencia. My roommate's luggage just came in so I'll see who I have. This is a nicer car then we had before.
My roommate has a DOG! Well I guess it's either dogs or babies -- maybe I attract them. It is a miniature French poodle - untrimmed. I saw a woman in the station today with a fluffy white one. He certainly gave the boys in line fits!!
My roommate speaks nothing but Spanish. One of the men next door speaks English and offered translate for me, but I haven't taken him up on it. He asked if was traveling alone, so I told him I was going to meet my husband. I work that into all conversations with men if the language barrier doesn't prevent.
This custom of Spanish wearing their wedding rings on their right hands makes everyone think I am a Senorita. I was even sold a senorita ticket last night, and he just put my maiden name on it too.
I had only two cokes for dinner, so it is a good thing I had some lunch. At the station there were men and women with two spouted pottery jugs. The big spout is to fill it and one drinks from the little one without touching it. They sell drinks of water. Many Spanish seem to have bad eyes. I can't see why this should be so.
From the train
I do not know where to tell you to write me Mother. Just write to Bob and also tell him what I have been doing as I haven't been writing to anyone but you.
As I wrote, Saturday was fiesta day. The travel agency in Madrid was WRONG WRONG WRONG about being able to get a hotel easily here. I walked my feet off and finally found a vacancy in a 2nd class hotel. They insisted that we take a full or demi pension and the food isn't bad actually. It costs us 120 pesetas a night ($2.00) for a double and 185 pesetas each a day for board. That is about $8.00 for 2 full room and board. We are on the 6th floor and you ride up but walk down. We have a small room with a sink, which is clean, but not elegant. We have a balcony on the main street. You can ride a streetcar for 0.5 to 1.5 pesetas and get anywhere. I've not been in a taxi since Bob got off the boat and had a suitcase to get to the hotel with.
View from the hotel
Our hotel was very European. The first floor was a stamp collecting shop. The Prime floor (one floor above the ground) was above that and was our hotel lobby and dining room. The secundo floor was mostly doctor's offices. The testro floor was a another hotel (Hotel Orientale) and the Quatro floor was most of the rooms of our hotel, with some on the floor above also. There was another floor above that, but I never went up there.
Valencia from the hotel bathroom
The elevator was the kind that you ride up and walk down. If you stopped off at the lobby, one of the bellboys had to be sent down to get the elevator. The keys, therefore, were all kept upstairs and not at the desk. After 10.00 at night the main iron grillwork doors were locked and if you wanted to get in you clapped for the "vigilante" who unlocked the gate for you. You also clapped for service at the cafe if you wanted if in a hurry. One day one of the elevators was out of order and then as we were walking downstairs that afternoon, it came down from the top floor with a workman calmly riding on the top. Then we heard staccato cries in Spanish and two workmen came running down the stairs after it.
The concierges spoke German but little English. The one who was new at his job got all the expenses balled up and tried to charge us for a shower the previous tenants had taken.
Bob's schedule has been changed. They did go to Cannes, which they missed on the first go-round. They went after Naples and they are now supposed to hit Marseille instead of Toulon. So it's a good thing I had no reservations. Bob brought a letter off the ship that you were mailing to Seville [where I was supposed to go with my sister after Lisbon]. I'm going to see if I can't get back to Marseille and Nurnburg by way of Granada. At night we went to a fair and saw the midway and had a coke and watched an opera on Spanish TV and listened to open air bands. We also got caught in another cloudburst. We huddled under a canopy until it was almost over.
Postcard of Avenas Beach
Dear D.
Saturday Daddy and I went out here to the beach. We had a good time swimming in the Mediterranean. Weds. we leave and Daddy meets me in Marseille from the 4th to the 8th. Then I go back to meet your auntie, uncle and cousin. I am going to look for a dress to send you from here in Valencia
Love,
Mummy and Daddy
Sunday, we went to a bullfight -- much more expensive than Madrid -- 465 pesetas for 2 against 250 pesetas, but it is festival time and top matadors and Sun. etc. The bullfight started out slower than in Madrid and the bulls just wouldn't die. Then it started to rain and we ended up vaulting several bales etc. to get to the roofed section of the ring and hiding under the bunting in the Spanish national colors that was draped around it. We left after the 7th bull because it started to rain again. The 7th matador put in his own bandoleers and got tossed for his pains and also got knocked down by the bull when doing his cape work. He wasn't hurt -- he is something of a hot shot I hear. Bob took some movies and also of the colored fountain in the main square.
I promised my sister I'd write her, but Bob is mailing this on board ship because I don't have the correct postage for German mail and neither does the concierge (he's new) Incidentally, Bob has until Weds. midnight leave, but we are going out to the ship during siesta hour to mail some film (which you should start getting back) and drop off some laundry. We have been fine. This morning we take a city tour (90 pesetas each).
Donkey cart - Valencia tour
Mercado Central and Santos Juanes Church (or St. John of the Market)
This church was built on top of a former mosque in the mid 13th century
inside La Lonja de la Seda de Valencia (silk exchange)
Built between 1482 and 1533, this group of buildings was originally used for trading in silk (hence its name, the Silk Exchange). It was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996 because "the site is of outstanding universal value as it is a wholly exceptional example of a secular building in late Gothic style, which dramatically illustrates the power and wealth of one of the great Mediterranean mercantile cities"
Lonja de la Seda courtyard
So this narrative talks about our passing through Madrid for the second time.
Friday, 24 July
Spanish customs just looked at the "nina" and passed on. We slept until Madrid, where the conductor nearly had an apoplectic fit when he saw that we weren't all ready to leap off the train as soon as it entered the station. My sister was still groggy from sleeping, and was ready to spit nails at him for shouting "Vamoose" at her at the top of his lungs (My mom's note -- I have laughed and laughed over this, knowing her (my sister) in the morning!) We were all ready to go -- it was only a matter of disentangling the stroller from the ceiling rack and waking the baby up. But my sister was sans stockings and tousled when we emerged. We were wearing yesterday's dresses - my sister had my blue nylon that I lent her.Taxi to the Valencia station, checked our bags, tried to get WL to Valencia. The only place left was for officials and we'd have to come back in a hour to see about it. With foreboding, we finally caught taxi to AmExp (Taxis are cheap). They had nothing at all for Valencia, but my sister could have a flight to Nuremberg. So at 10:35 we decided she should take the 1:15 plane. No time to take the airport bus -- taxi back to the station.
I disappeared into the depths to get the bags. My sister had the baby in the stroller, diaper bag, food bag and garment bag and I carried our two suitcases.
Taxi about $1.75 to the airport -- like going from downtown to Friendship (now BWI). Weighed in at 10 lbs heavy (She had been, supposedly 18 lb overweight on the trip down with all the diapers and baby food).
After repacking, throwing out, and giving away (powdered milk donated to stewardesses nino cousin) they accepted the bags -- weren't so picayune as the Germans were).
Everyone into the ladies room where we convulsed the attendants by my sister giving the baby and herself a sponge bath while I performed the magic act , standard form (consisting of washing bottles and making powdered milk and orange juice from a concentrate. This never failed to astound the Spanish). My sister changed clothes, gave me back my dress, combed her hair, took her leave from TA, exited through passport control. She said that in Spain, the Stewardess takes the baby from the mother. In Germany, the stewardess offers to carry the diaper bag.
My sister and niece exiting through passport control
Postcard from 1964
Dear D (postcard from Madrid)
Tell G'mummy that auntie B and cousin D. got on the plane this morning to go home. We couldn't get space to Valencia because there is a festival there, but they are well and healthy. She insists that if I write her, she will forward the letters right on to you. I still don't know a hotel for Valencia or indeed anywhere until Nuremberg.
Love, Mummy
-----------------------
This has been a most frustrating day. It need not have been if anyone knew anything and communications were better. After I left my sister at the airport, I went to the information bureau and they said Certainly I ought to be able to get a train space and a hotel booked. They gave me the name of a travel agency, but it wouldn't be open until 4.30. And there was an Express at 7 that got in at 10 (Madrid to Valencia). So I went down to get the airline bus -- they don't leave anymore until 2:30 (it was then 1.30). Well I waited anyway and in about a 1/2 hr. one pulled up and so I got in. Then we got to the Palace Hotel and they almost wouldn't let me have my bag because I had no airline claim check -- after all, what was I doing on the bus if not coming from an airplane?
Got a taxi to the station (RR) and again checked my bag. The station was packed.
What I should have done was stand in line and get a reservation, but I felt that would be ungrateful to the travel agency. So I got lunch and finished my postcards and mailed them, and took a taxi out to the travel agency. I was still 1/2 hr. early so had to wait
La Lectura (The reading) - 766 by Goya 1766-1828
I sent this card to my dad's office workers
This picture from the Prado Museum is supposed to be a cartoon & is from Goya's "black period". I have just put my sister on the plane for Nurnberg after she spent a week here in Spain and Portugal with me. We took the baby to museums, a bullfight and castles. She was much admired.
RosalieAnn
-----------------------------------------------
At the travel agency, they said that with a Eurail pass I'd have to go to the station to get a seat and they wouldn't book me a hotel, but Valencia was a big city and no one stayed there for a holiday because the beaches weren't near. So I should have no trouble. And they gave me some addresses and indicated which were big hotels.
So I took the Metro (1.5 pesetas against 25 pesetas ) back to the station, which was a madhouse. I stood in line 3 SOLID HOURS only to discover that I couldn't get a seat reservation except on the train.
I met some of Spain's youth, who were very nice, although there was a communications barrier and I read "The Little King" comic over another man's shoulder. There were families with every size child, luggage of every miscellaneous sort. All are going to the beach for a holiday.
I was very tired, so I got my bag out of hock (did I say that it was the baggage man who set me straight about what time the train really left? He seemed most anxious that I understand) and went to the Wagon-Lits office on the off-chance that there might be one, and there was!! Maybe having to produce 2 together made it difficult. Or maybe the other man wanted his palm crossed with silver, but this time it was zip-zip and there I was 318 pesetas please, which is between 5 and 6 dollars. So here I am in luxury accommodations again
Of course I still had to walk around and find the right train. It was early enough that the train was not marked. My bag gets heavier and heavier. I'm going to have to give some of my travel literature to Bob.
Anyway, I didn't get any shopping done so I'll have to see about a way to get back to Toulon when I get to Valencia. My roommate's luggage just came in so I'll see who I have. This is a nicer car then we had before.
My roommate has a DOG! Well I guess it's either dogs or babies -- maybe I attract them. It is a miniature French poodle - untrimmed. I saw a woman in the station today with a fluffy white one. He certainly gave the boys in line fits!!
My roommate speaks nothing but Spanish. One of the men next door speaks English and offered translate for me, but I haven't taken him up on it. He asked if was traveling alone, so I told him I was going to meet my husband. I work that into all conversations with men if the language barrier doesn't prevent.
This custom of Spanish wearing their wedding rings on their right hands makes everyone think I am a Senorita. I was even sold a senorita ticket last night, and he just put my maiden name on it too.
I had only two cokes for dinner, so it is a good thing I had some lunch. At the station there were men and women with two spouted pottery jugs. The big spout is to fill it and one drinks from the little one without touching it. They sell drinks of water. Many Spanish seem to have bad eyes. I can't see why this should be so.
From the train
I do not know where to tell you to write me Mother. Just write to Bob and also tell him what I have been doing as I haven't been writing to anyone but you.
Saturday 25 July 1964
Well I had a good night and am now up. The country side is much greener looking and I see orange trees and palms approaching Valencia.As I wrote, Saturday was fiesta day. The travel agency in Madrid was WRONG WRONG WRONG about being able to get a hotel easily here. I walked my feet off and finally found a vacancy in a 2nd class hotel. They insisted that we take a full or demi pension and the food isn't bad actually. It costs us 120 pesetas a night ($2.00) for a double and 185 pesetas each a day for board. That is about $8.00 for 2 full room and board. We are on the 6th floor and you ride up but walk down. We have a small room with a sink, which is clean, but not elegant. We have a balcony on the main street. You can ride a streetcar for 0.5 to 1.5 pesetas and get anywhere. I've not been in a taxi since Bob got off the boat and had a suitcase to get to the hotel with.
View from the hotel
Our hotel was very European. The first floor was a stamp collecting shop. The Prime floor (one floor above the ground) was above that and was our hotel lobby and dining room. The secundo floor was mostly doctor's offices. The testro floor was a another hotel (Hotel Orientale) and the Quatro floor was most of the rooms of our hotel, with some on the floor above also. There was another floor above that, but I never went up there.
Valencia from the hotel bathroom
The elevator was the kind that you ride up and walk down. If you stopped off at the lobby, one of the bellboys had to be sent down to get the elevator. The keys, therefore, were all kept upstairs and not at the desk. After 10.00 at night the main iron grillwork doors were locked and if you wanted to get in you clapped for the "vigilante" who unlocked the gate for you. You also clapped for service at the cafe if you wanted if in a hurry. One day one of the elevators was out of order and then as we were walking downstairs that afternoon, it came down from the top floor with a workman calmly riding on the top. Then we heard staccato cries in Spanish and two workmen came running down the stairs after it.
The concierges spoke German but little English. The one who was new at his job got all the expenses balled up and tried to charge us for a shower the previous tenants had taken.
Bob's schedule has been changed. They did go to Cannes, which they missed on the first go-round. They went after Naples and they are now supposed to hit Marseille instead of Toulon. So it's a good thing I had no reservations. Bob brought a letter off the ship that you were mailing to Seville [where I was supposed to go with my sister after Lisbon]. I'm going to see if I can't get back to Marseille and Nurnburg by way of Granada. At night we went to a fair and saw the midway and had a coke and watched an opera on Spanish TV and listened to open air bands. We also got caught in another cloudburst. We huddled under a canopy until it was almost over.
26 July 1964 - Sunday
Saturday, Bob and I walked around the city this morning and saw some sights on our own. We went to the beach for the afternoon.
Postcard of Avenas Beach
Dear D.
Saturday Daddy and I went out here to the beach. We had a good time swimming in the Mediterranean. Weds. we leave and Daddy meets me in Marseille from the 4th to the 8th. Then I go back to meet your auntie, uncle and cousin. I am going to look for a dress to send you from here in Valencia
Love,
Mummy and Daddy
Sunday, we went to a bullfight -- much more expensive than Madrid -- 465 pesetas for 2 against 250 pesetas, but it is festival time and top matadors and Sun. etc. The bullfight started out slower than in Madrid and the bulls just wouldn't die. Then it started to rain and we ended up vaulting several bales etc. to get to the roofed section of the ring and hiding under the bunting in the Spanish national colors that was draped around it. We left after the 7th bull because it started to rain again. The 7th matador put in his own bandoleers and got tossed for his pains and also got knocked down by the bull when doing his cape work. He wasn't hurt -- he is something of a hot shot I hear. Bob took some movies and also of the colored fountain in the main square.
27 July, 1964 - Monday
Dear Mother,I promised my sister I'd write her, but Bob is mailing this on board ship because I don't have the correct postage for German mail and neither does the concierge (he's new) Incidentally, Bob has until Weds. midnight leave, but we are going out to the ship during siesta hour to mail some film (which you should start getting back) and drop off some laundry. We have been fine. This morning we take a city tour (90 pesetas each).
Donkey cart - Valencia tour
Mercado Central and Santos Juanes Church (or St. John of the Market)
This church was built on top of a former mosque in the mid 13th century
inside La Lonja de la Seda de Valencia (silk exchange)
Built between 1482 and 1533, this group of buildings was originally used for trading in silk (hence its name, the Silk Exchange). It was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996 because "the site is of outstanding universal value as it is a wholly exceptional example of a secular building in late Gothic style, which dramatically illustrates the power and wealth of one of the great Mediterranean mercantile cities"
Lonja de la Seda courtyard
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