Tarascon, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence & Les Baux in 1964 - post 23

This entry is in the series Visiting Europe - 1950, 1964, 1992, 2002, 2015
Looking across river from Avignon to the castle of King Rene
Looking across the river

Looking across the river

Roof tops of Avignon

Roof tops of Avignon

Walls of Avignon

Walls of Avignon

King Rene's Castle in Tarascon

King Rene's Castle in Tarascon

Castle moat

Castle moat

Castle

Castle

Collegiate Church of Saint Martha

Collegiate Church of Saint Martha

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Looking across road to road to Van Gogh's insane asylum in Saint-Remy

Looking across road to road to Van Gogh's insane asylum in Saint-Remy

We visited the "Antiques of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence".
The Mausoleum of the Julii

The Mausoleum of the Julii

The mausoleum of Glanum is a cenotaph erected in memory of Caius and Lucius Caesar , grandsons of the emperor Augustus 1 . Gallo-Roman monument erected between -30 and -20 .
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Arc de triomphe de Glanum

The Municipal Arc of Glanum is a Roman arch located in the municipality of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence in the Bouches-du-Rhône. It is one of the oldest arches in France

Overlooking Les Baux

Overlooking Les Baux

Les Baux looking across the parking lot

Les Baux looking across the parking lot

I was interested in Les Baux because bauxite, the ore from which aluminum was extracted was discovered here in 1822 by the geologist Pierre Berthier (who named it for the city). Charles Martin Hall invented a process to extract aluminum from bauxite at Oberlin in Ohio in 1886. That's where I went to school and we had an aluminum statue of Charles Martin Hall in the vestibule of our Chemistry building.

Unfortunately for France, the ore has been completely worked out; France now imports most of its bauxite from west Africa although they might still have been mining it when we were there in 1964

I was told that Dante wrote his description of Hell based on the twists and turns of the rocks in the landscape of Les Baux.
Dante's Landscape

Dante's Landscape

Other artists and writers have also viewed the fantastic landscape and subsequently written or painted works where this landscape has figured. They include

ARTISTS
Yves Brayer
Antoine Serra
Van Gogh

WRITERS
Marie Mauron
Frédéric Mistral
André Suarès

ENGRAVER
Louis Jou

Desolation of Dante

Desolation of Dante

«No one passes through Les Baux without a sense of true nostalgia, for here, more than anywhere else, the labours of time show what becomes of the most ambitious undertakings: ruined walls and breaches onto the void. The stones of man’s proud constructions devoured by the sun and wind. Only traces remain of their ambition, fears and solitude»
(T.Fréchier)
In the city in 1964

In the city in 1964

In early times, it was quite common to settle on a hilltop where a fort could be built to defend the town. But the fortifications could not stand against modern cannons.
Ruins

Ruins

In the words of Mistral, the Lords of Les Baux were "never vassals". He was correct, since they were among the most powerful feudal lords in France’s Midi who ruled 79 fiefs with an iron hand for five centuries, crushing all insubordinance. They claimed to be the descendants of one of the three Magi, Balthazar. The evening star (Saint Estelle) was the sixteen-pointed star on the coat of arms of the Lords of Baux.

We might look at some events that occurred before Les Baux was finally overcome by France. For nearly twenty years, Raymond des Baux waged the Baussenque wars (1145 to 1162), fighting the Count of Barcelona for the earldom of Provence. He was known as "the scourge of Provence" - he found throwing prisoners off the top of the castle to be an effective solution. At the same time, Les Baux was also the location of the famous Courts of Love where poetry and song were occupations for the inhabitants.
Cats over a doorway

Cats over a doorway


The castle was destroyed by Louis XI (in 1483). The most famous governor was Constable Anne de Montmorency, embarked on considerable restoration work, and the town saw a return to splendour. The Constable had the Treasury archives transferred to the citadel from Aix, where they were under threat from Charles V’s troops.

However, the castle and city walls were eventually destroyed under Richelieu’s orders because of the rebellious Protestantism of the Manville family who managed what had by now become just a barony. The ramparts were defended for 27 days but in the end they surrendered. Less than two hundred years later, Les Baux at last became the marquisate of the Grimaldi royal family of Monaco.

Now the village has been painstakingly restored and several buildings in the village are classified as "Historic Monuments." When we were there, it was still in the original ruins.
Fortified City Falls to Canon

Fortified City Falls to Canon

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looking down
Next entry in the series 'Visiting Europe - 1950, 1964, 1992, 2002, 2015': Les Baux to Arles in Provence in 1964 - post 24
Previous entry in the series 'Visiting Europe - 1950, 1964, 1992, 2002, 2015': Exploring - Beginning at Avignon in 1964 - post 22

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Series table of contents

1950 Post War Europe - the Beginning of the trip Short Ferry Ride to Sweden, and Cologne -1950 - post 2 Cologne and the Rhine in 1950 - post 3 The Rhine Cruise in 1950 - post 4 Heidelberg and Mannheim in 1950 - post 5 Germany in 1950- Post 6 Berchtesgarden in 1950 - post 7 The Walled City of Rothenburg on the Tauber in 1950- post 8 Visiting Relatives in Lichtenau and going to Munich in 1950 - post 9 Driving through Bavaria in 1950 - post 10 Innsbruck, Austria in 1950 - post 11 To See the Matterhorn in 1950 - 12th post From Gornergrat to Zermatt 1950 - 13th post Our Chalet (Girl Guides and Girl Scouts) in 1950 - 14th post Jungfraujoch in 1950 - 15th post Visiting Berne in 1950 - 16th post The Fifth International Cancer Congress in Paris - 1950 - post 17 From One Conference to Another in 1950 - 18th post Oxford at the International Anatomical Congress in 1950 - 19th post Tracing Shakespeare's Life and visiting Cambridge in 1950 - post 20 Cambridge, Whipsnade Zoo and Driving North in 1950 - post 21 North past Hadrian's Wall - 1950 - post 22 Edinburgh 1950 - post 23 South to London via Gretna Green - 1950 - post 24 Buckingham Palace and the Tower of London- 1950 - post 25 Windsor Castle in 1950 - post 26 Eton College in 1950 and Sailing Home - post 27 Ship Follower in 1964 - post 1 Climbing to the Top of Paris in 1964 and the Train to Spain - post 2 Meeting my Sister and Niece in Madrid in 1964 - post 3 A Bullfight in Madrid in 1964 - post 4 Training to and Touring Lisbon in 1964 - post 5 Bus Tour to Belem 1964 - post 6 Armillary spheres, and Shopping in Lisbon in 1964 - post 7 Touring by Taxi from Lisbon in 1964 - post 8 Touring by Taxi - part 2 in 1964-post 9 Touring by Taxi - part 3 in 1964 - post 10 Touring by Taxi part 4 - 1964 - post 11 Photographing the Fish Market in Lisbon in 1964 - post 12 Finishing up Lisbon in 1964 - post 13 Trains in Spain in 1964 - post 14 Valencia - 1964 - post 15 Washington Irving and Alhambra in 1964 - post 16 The Alhambra -1964 - post 17 Granada - 1964- post 18 Visiting Toledo in 1964 -post 19 Getting Out of Spain - 1 August 1964 - post 20 1964 Tour in Citroen2CV of South France - post 21 Exploring - Beginning at Avignon in 1964 - post 22 Tarascon, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence & Les Baux in 1964 - post 23 Les Baux to Arles in Provence in 1964 - post 24 Harborside Marseille in 1964 - post 25 Marseille to Paris in 1964 - post 26 Up to Sacre Coeur in 1964 - post 27 Venturing to Versailles in 1964 - post 28 Versailles to Nürnberg in 1964 - post 29 Nürnberg in 1964 - post 30 Reflecting on Nürnberg in 1964 - post 31 Arriving in Naples in 1964 - post 32 Naples to Pompeii in 1964 - post 33 The Rest of Pompeii in 1964 - post 34 The Amalfi Drive in 1964 - post 35 Leaving Naples and Europe - post 36

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