Climbing to the Top of Paris in 1964 and the Train to Spain - post 2

Arrival - Thursday, July 16, 1964​

We got to Paris about 0720. I was to leave on the afternoon train going to Spain, and I had to change train stations

Once in Paris, I kept having the feeling I ought to look under the bed and my Ventura [a large shoulder bag which held my camera, London Fog raincoat, toilet case etc, which my mom loaned me] seemed lighter, but the compartment was so crowded that I didn't.

Breakfast in the Station​

I tried to go out to the subway, but they would not let me out without showing my ticket and it didn't dawn on me what they wanted. Besides the station was full of Parisennes rushing from the suburbs to work like lemmings.

So I had two croissants and coffee in the station for 2.5 F including tip, and bought an orange for 1/2 F and a postcard and stamp (1.25 F). THEN I looked in my Ventura to put my orange into it and it suddenly dawned on me like a flash, that I had left my toilet case on the train.

SO I went rushing back for it and luckily the train was still there. The case had slipped behind the bunk and was hidden from the front by some kind of heater. My pocketbook was too big for that.

When I got off, I found out from the man at the gate where I had asked if it was the same train that I could check my suitcase to the other station for 2.6NF. So I did. I kept the Ventura with me. I'd be more mobile without it, but it won't lock.

Lost In Space​

This was later in the letter.

The most hair-raising tale I have skipped.

I saw an SNCF hostess and asked about a tour of Paris ($3 plus and 3 hours) and a Wagon-Lits to Madrid. She said to go to the other end of the station. I did and the man there said to wait until 0900. So I went to a ticket window, and he pointed across the way. I went there, and they directed me back to the 0900 man.

At this time, a second man came in, shook hands with his co-workers and told me that the Wagon Lit were 45.9 F. Couchettes were back at the second place. There after a little consultation, I found that there were no couchettes, so I went to change a $10 travelers check to pay for the W-L.

THEN I discovered that my change purse was gone and with it my Eurail pass!! [Note: This was a pass to ride on the trains as much as I want for a month and it cost $130.00]

So thinking that I was either having a very unlucky morning or a real workout, I rushed to where I had been at the other end of the station. The man there told me that he had taken it to the hostess at the other end of the station..

I got it back intact, except that I am missing 10F and maybe that is where it went. I guess I'm lucky. I found I hadn't filled out the ID card and the only place my name was, was on the Eurail pass.

[My mom's comment was that she hoped these two incidents would really teach me a valuable lesson. I think I might has still been a little jet lagged.]

Morning Sightseeing​

By now I had figured out how to get my Eurail pass out and display it and so was able to pass the barrier.

I bought a carnet of Metro tickets (3F) and went to Notre Dame. I walked around and then paid 1.15F to go up in the tower, which I found to my distress was STEPS [I don't know what I thought it would be]. I was so weak when I got down that I went to a nearby cafe and had a coke (1.5 F with tip).

Then I walked to another Metro station . I bought a package of airmail envelopes (0.9F) on the way.

I went to the Arc de Triomph and paid another 1.5F (in each case the 0.5F was the permission to take pictures), and waited in line for the elevator.




On the back of this card, I wrote to my daughter

Dear D.

I am now trying to get a Wagon-Lit from Irun to Madrid. I have had breakfast (2.50 F) and checked my luggage to the next station (2.60F) & found my toilette case which slipped behind my bunk & I had to go back to the train for it. I had a good night on the train. I missed our cousin in Frankfurt, but I talked to your aunt on the phone.
_______________

I didn't have any luck. No bookings from Iron at this end. I almost left my pocketbook in one of the inquiry places. I have climbed 400 steps to the top of Notre Dame (2.55) and am now on my way to Eiffel Tower.

Love Mummy.
The stamp said "Republique Francaise Postes" on the top, the price was 0.65. The bottom said "Dinan" and "Valle de la Rance". The picture included a bridge.

The postmark had a cross and an outline of a nurse on it and said "Devenez ....Des Horptaux__De Paris

By the time I got down it was noon, so I got a taxi (for speed) to the Eiffel Tower (3.7F tip included) and went up (5F) to the second stage.


Going up the Eiffel Tower in 1964 - France

The line for the 3rd stage was so long I knew I'd never make it, so I bought a Popsicle and came down (1F). A waste of 2F.

Leaving Paris​

I got a taxi to the station (5.6F plus tip), and secured my bag. The baggage clerk gave me a leer but he showed me where to mail my postcard. Then I panted out to the train. [Keep in mind that there were no wheeled bags in those days, and I was carrying all my luggage.]

I ate my orange (very good) and got a ham sandwich pus orange drink (2.7NF) for lunch as I was too slow on the draw for the dining car. [At that time there were about 5 NF to $1.00]

I am in a no smoking car and this train is really an express. It doesn't stop anywhere between 1345 and 1800. There are two Frenchmen in my compartment and a girl who smokes Viceroys. I think by that and her watch that she is an American, but she has only spoken French so far.

The Spanish Railroad has really managed to get everyone fouled up. No one could reserve a seat, and yet they are all reserved. I think I have sat in one that is not taken. If worst comes to worst, I will get a W-L for the rest of the trip. The later [farther along] it gets the lower the price gets.

Three Star Dinner​

There is a hot breeze. The dining room steward came through and gave me my ticket. My eating today so far including tips has cost about $1.50. I ate dinner in the dining car and it was expensive because the chef was a three star cook, but it was good (18.5F)

The dinner started with noodle consume. I got a half liter bottle of mineral water which was halfway cold. I was so thirsty that I drank 2. Then we got fish, but I couldn't translate what kind. It was boneless and done in butter. Then we had jellied chicken and vichyssoise salad. The latter was boiled potatoes, string beans, tomatoes in quarters, black olives, lettuce and anchovies all done up in olive oil, vinegar and garlic. We had a hard roll of course.

Then they came around and offered yogurt with sugar, which I took to see what it was. If you didn't get yogurt, you got cheeses. I knew it was yogurt because it was printed on the top. With sugar it looks like cream of wheat. A little anyway.

Then we got dessert, which was either brandied cherries in ice cream or fruit. I took the ice cream, as I am not up to peeling and eating a peach with my knife and fork in public yet. Then we got coffee plus liquor if we wanted, but I didn't as that was all extra.

As it was, with 2 bottles of water and service charge it came to 24.2F, and I only had about 16F left, so I had to use two $5.00 bills to round it out and got some change back. I felt I owed it to myself however to have something besides coke, coffee an orange and a train ham sandwich while in France.

All my compartment mates on the French part of the train got off in Bordeaux or Bayonne.


Pond and sunset from train

[The express train from Paris got to the Spanish boarder about midnight, and we had to switch trains because the Spanish trains used a different gauge track]

I wrote in a letter to my Mom:

I found at the border that there were many Americans on the train. I got my passport out quickly and it was stamped for the first time. But the customs official just gave me a glassy-eyed stare, saw my passport and chalked my baggage. I wasted time in the currency line thinking I might need to get a Wagon-Lit, but anyway I would have the money.

Train and track from the window at night

My compartment mates in Spain are another American girl who has just now waked up and told me that she is American, two Spanish men and a Spanish couple. The man knows some English.

In case you were wondering, I didn't get a W-L and I slept pretty well in snatches. But with the baby, I'm used to that, and I've had no problem with my milk supply engorging my breasts [Ed note from my mom - she barely got her 9 month old weaned before she left] The train is very bumpy , so excuse my writing.

Approaching San Sebastian on the train

Tents

We saw the Atlantic from the train and also communities of tenting vacationers.

I was quite surprised at the color of the tents, since most of the time our tents were colors to blend in, like green or khaki. These tents were blue and orange!!!



Town across the river


river

Except for the electric lines which tend to get in the way of pictures from the train, it is very primitive country. All the towns are brightly lighted at night though.


Telephone pole jumping in front of the castle

The sun is coming up, and I inspected myself in the mirror of the WC. I look like a coal miner. The Spanish use the old fashioned pufferbelly engine.

Road from the train


Landscape from the train at dawn


Fields from the train


Spain from the train

It is freezing cold. (Well I don't know if it really is.) I have on my raincoat and sweater and all the windows had to be closed because I started to sneeze anyway. Two men were very courtly (in Spanish) about it.

Valley from train


country-side from train

We see shepards and irrigated fields and many electric power lines and castles and horse and donkey drawn carts. It is fairly flat, but rocky and mountains in the distance.

We are now climbing again. This is supposed to be an express, but the Lone Ranger and Silver could catch it easily.

Horses